The Road Home

Where one road ends, another one begins. In one day, I went from the height of the Andes mountains in Bolivia...

... to the sandy horizon of the Gulf Coast.

Beyond the extreme topographical contrast, I felt a huge mental shift as I traded my wool socks for flip flops. To celebrate my return, M. took me to Honeymoon Island - a gem among Florida's state parks that features a 4-mile beach, protected mangroves, a nature trail, bike trail and a ferry. Ah, it was incredible!

Now that I'm back and somewhat rested, we once again face the long (and neglected) project list at PMH...

postcard: In Hot Water

Urmiri, BO - Despite the un-paved bumpy mountain path and the occasional delay of llamas crossing the road, I found the trip to aguas calientes (hot springs) at Urmiri to be well worth the effort. I spent a day in these hot waters and my muscles continue to thank me. Bolivians from all over the country travel to the resort at Hotel Gloria to enjoy this natural swimming hole and thermal pools, which are famous for their mysterious healing powers. Approaching the hot springs, the first thing I noticed are the white curls of steam rising from the emerald-green pool. Carefully stepping down the slipperty stone staircase, I discovered the water to be a comfortable chest-height in depth. Surprisingly, the water was crystal clear; I had a perfect view of my toes and the rocky bottom. The swimming hole is fed by a tall gushing waterfall that is just shy of scalding temperatures (I learned this the hard way). Although I wasn't brave enough to try it myself, I observed many people leaning against the mountain rock that is perpetually heated by the waterfall. On this trip with a few family members, we chatted with other visitors to the hot springs. They told us tales of limbs and ailments that were miraculously healed by these same waters. I hoped, more than anything, that they might be true...

Love, J.

postcard: Thanks, bird poop!

Mallasa, BO - A bird pooped on me today. I was grumpy as I looked up to face my offender. When I realized it was a bird's nest, I softened my scowl. The nest reminded me that tomorrow (September 21st) is the 1st day of Spring in Bolivia. Of course it's also the 1st day of Autumn back home in Tampa, FL. Oddly, Autumn in Tampa is warmer than Spring in La Paz. I took my mom and aunt to the annual Flower Festival that marks the Spring Equinox here, where I even spotted some of my favorite Florida native plants. Lately it seems, I am more and more frequently thinking of home. Anyhow, thanks bird poop for reminding me of spring - of new life, new beginnings, and all things renewing after a period of hiberation (maybe even me) ... but did it have to be on my new alpaca sweater?

Love, J.

postcard: R & R

Jupapina, BO - Hello, exhaustion; I was wondering when you would show up. Even though my trip is wrapping up, so many weeks of climbing scary steep hills, gasping at cold oxygen-thin air, and the troubles on my mind... it finally caught up to me. In the way of requiring some serious resting in bed and letting my physical and emotional batteries recharge. At least I have this view to enjoy: the Andes mountains framed by marshmallowy clouds. It's quite a change from the seemingly endless flat sea-level in Tampa Bay. Honestly, I'm already missing the warm breezes and sock-free lifestyle that Central Florida allows... oh, and I'm missing Pacha Mama House too.

Love, J.

postcard: Second breakfast

La Paz, BO - Around 11am, a magical thing happens in La Paz: people of all ages spill into Salteñerias to enjoy hot salteñas (kinda like a small bolivian meat pie with sweet dough). I like to refer to this as 2nd brekky. Most salteñas have either beef or chicken filling, but this Bolivian girl hunted down a vegetarian option (yippee!). I also discovered that "El Hornito" [translation: The little oven] has expanded and now has 3 salteñerias serving the greater La Paz area. Excellent! If you've never had a salteña, you are really missing something in life...

P.S. I rode past the U.S. Embassy today and observed the flag flying at half-staff. It was a sad moment because I remember being a D.C. resident in September 2001. I recall standing on my apartment rooftop and watching billowing smoke streak the sky. Even though I'm far away at this moment, it doesn't seem so... not today.

Love, J.

postcard: Lady in the water

Lake Titicaca, BO - Nestled within the mountain range that makes up the Bolivia-Peru border is the world´s highest navigable lake. A 3 hr bus ride from La Paz brings tourists, vendors, and devout believers to Copacabana, a small town at the mouth of Lake Titicaca. Copacabana´s main attraction is the enormous white-washed Church that was created after a local indigenous man sighted a dark-skinned Virgin Mary in the lake. Without any training, he sculpted her likeness which was placed in the Church. It wasn´t long before many began attributing miracles to her. Throngs continue to come here for this reason - to pray for a miracle for themselves or a loved one. Health, wealth, love... anything is possible. Although I´m not a religious person, I had my own miracles to pray for, and I did. A few block´s walk from the Church is the famous Copacabana beach (no, not THAT one). This is a lake beach -windy, trout-stocked, and bejeweled with wooden sailboats. If only my camera could have captured the infinite shades of blue...

Love, J.

postcard: City limits

Mallasa, BO - Just outside the city limits of La Paz, is the quaint town of Mallasa. It´s uninterrupted mountain views and sunny outdoor restaurants make it a popular weekend haunt for locals and a respite for chilled tourists. As for me, I can be often be found at the Hotel Oberland. As if the yummy restaurant and bubbling hot tub weren´t enough, the biggest draw for me are the sprawling gardens. The flowery grounds are equipped with free wifi for when i´m feeling social... and also with fruit-tree shaded benches for when I just want to read a few more chapters in my book... It´s a great - albeit brief- respite for my mind (when there is so much on it these days).

postcard: Saturday market

La Paz,BO – Saturday is the big ¨market¨ or shopping day for most Bolivians. The tall downtown buildings couldnt block out all of the strong Andean sun today. I was grateful for the break from several days of wind & cold. As usual, the cobblestone streets of Mercado Rodriguez were crowded and noisy. Amidst the constant buzz of shoppers bargaining, I wound my way to what has become one of my favorite vendors - a health food kiosk. Luck was on my side, and despite the late hour, I was able to snag the last bag of soy bread sweetened with honey and mandarins as big as grapefruits! Yum.
Love, J.

WEEKS 57 - 59: Bless this house (Pacha Mama offering)

M. recently completed one of the most important tasks to date: a Pacha Mama offering (a house blessing). August is the official month of Pacha Mama (Mother Earth). During this time Bolivians from all walks of life celebrate a very old ritual: to ask Pacha Mama to bless their home and in return they give a modest offering to the Earth. Bolivians wait patiently in long lines outside of vendor booths selling “pre-made” offerings. But since M. wasn’t here to travel through a Bolivian street market with me, he made his own. Here’s how:

FIRST, M. began assembling the traditional offering items. Since some items aren’t available in Tampa, he had to improvise and be creative with a symbolic interpretation of each item:

1. A COCA TEA BAG - to ask forgiveness of the Earth and environment for breaking ground with the construction of your house …true tradition calls for using actual coca leaves, which are illegal to bring into the U.S., but coca tea bags are allowed and they are made from shredded coca leaves);
2. A LLAMA FIGURINE - to give life back to the Earth… true tradition calls for using a llama fetus, but those aren’t readily available in Tampa plus the (ick!) factor…
3. BROWN SUGAR - to protect against bitterness in your home; and
4. MONEY/COINS - so that your household will never be without money
   

SECOND, M. found a place in our yard that would likely go undisturbed (among our banana palms), and buried the offering into the earth, and poured beer over it for "luck" (Pacha Mama is thirsty after all!). Tradition calls for using Bolivia liquor or beer, but since none was available we made do with an old Heineken in the back of the fridge.
Remember that to make an offering, it is the INTENTION that counts, not a strict interpretation of tradition. Some other common offering items include candies and cigarettes, but we felt good about the symbolic contents of our offering. I can’t help but wonder what other house-blessing traditions exist in other parts of the world ...

postcard: Cappuccino light

La Paz, BO – It’s 5 o’clock somewhere…actually in La Paz, Bolivia. Happy hour here translates to everyone cramming into the nearest café for a ritual caffeine fix of tea or coffee. Why did it take me so long to discover a “cappuccino light” – they are made with soymilk. Ahh, soymilk, my long lost friend. How I missed you! Oh, and a warm croissant with chocolate filling (a specialty at Alexander Coffee & Pub) makes it go down easier too.

Love, J.

postcard: Pachamama's gift

La Paz, BO: Since I'm temporarily based overseas to help my mom w/ her health, here's the 1st of some short (travel) blog posts I'm writing in a postcard format.

I couldn’t pass up a Pacha Mama movie! Pacha mama’s gift, known by it’s Spanish title El Regalo de Pachamama is an indie film that recently premiered here in La Paz, Bolivia. Japanse director Toshifumi Matsushita tells the story of a young boy, Kuntari, living in the Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia – the world’s largest salt flat. Kuntari joins his father on a long and cold journey to distribute salt to people living in remote areas. Naturally, they bring a small herd of llamas to carry the salt and encounter many adventures/misadventures along the way. Don’t worry, no real llamas were harmed in the making of this movie. I suppose it’s a coming-of-age story as Kuntari has some of his first experiences with grief, love and loss. The scenery of blinding white salt dessert and cloudless blue skies left me without words (a rare occurence). Yup, I sniffled at a few parts of the movie, but I still came away smiling at the end.

Love, J.

WEEKs 31 - 33: RETURN TO PACHAMAMA

Back from CARNAVAL! As many of you know my family is from Bolivia…and my mom moved back there years ago during her retirement. On our 2nd trip to Bolivia together, M and I wanted to spend quality time with mom … oh and also to dance a little bit. We spent most of our time around the bustling city of La Paz, enjoying vibrant streetmarkets, Bolivian bakeries (yum!), pre-Inca ruin sites, and of course a weekend getaway to Oruro to experience Carnaval – Bolivian style. Oruro’s Carnaval consists of a dance parade that lasts over 20 hours…but we didn’t even last ten…phew! It was one of the most incredible and exhausting things we have ever done. We came back from this trip inspired by the folk music, vegetarian cuisine, and lively indigenous textiles. Here we share a few of our favorite pics from this trip… we hope you will be inspired too!

Carnval dancers in "diablo" and "caporales" costumes...

Pre-Inca "Monolito" statue and the view of the La Paz valley